Macro

MACRO

A lens having a reproduction ratio of 1:1  

Macro photography is taking extremely close-up images of subjects. The technically correct definition would be to take an image at a 1:1 ratio but, in general usage, the term has come to mean any close-up photography.

Macro capable photography lenses are marked with magnification ratios such as 1:1 or 1:5. A 1:1 ratio means that the image would be the same size on film (negative) as in real life. A 1:5 ratio would mean that the subject would be 1/5 the size on film as it is in real life. Due to the small size of 35mm negatives and digital sensors, a 1:5 ratio is nearly life size when printed onto 4"x6" paper.

From Makros – a Greek word meaning large, l  o  n  g 

• Macro is the term used to describe photographs 

where the subject is recorded as life size or up to 

10 times bigger than life size. 

Close-up is where the subject is recorded 

between one tenth of its actual size to life size. 

 

Any small detailed items can be used and arranged into a composition, when capturing macro photography a tripod is essential as your focus area is extremely small and hard to capture if you are not completely still.

The greater the magnification used, the 

shallower your depth of field becomes. The old 

rule of choosing the smallest aperture possible 

stands true, but only to an extent. At apertures of 

f/22 or f/16, a loss of general image sharpness 

can occur through diffraction

(diffraction - the process by which a beam of light or other system of waves is spread out as a result of passing through a narrow aperture or across an edge, typically accompanied by interference between the wave forms produced.)

Equipment:

DSLR, Set of x3 extension 

tubes (12mm, 20mm, 36mm), light trigger and receiver, 

hand held light meter, lighting equipment, light table, 

black and white backdrops. 

 If the camera is set to f/16 and you 

are using a 12mm extension tube the light meter will 

need to read f/16.5 (half a stop brighter). If set to f/11 

on camera and using a 12mm extension the light must 

be f/11.5. 

Possible lightings:

• Daylight
• Artificial light - torches or table lamps
• Off camera flash
• Ring flash - ideal (expensive)
• Use absorbent or translucent materials out of shot to add, reduce or diffuse light

Beware of shadows!

ISO – 100 ISO is ideal but you may need to increase this if 

light is low 

Shutter speed – if your subject is completely still and you 

are using a tripod, then shutter speed can be anything you 

like! You may wish to increase this if your subject is 

moving. When using studio flash you should use 1/60. 

Aperture – depth of field is very limited so this suggests a 

small aperture. However image quality will be reduced at 

very small apertures. Somewhere between f11 and f16 is 

generally an acceptable compromise. 

 Own images using 1/60, 100ISO and
f/11, focus ring set to infinity.